Kiribati
17th June 2012
Up at 4.30am, taxi 5pm, to catch a flight at 7am. Jasper (dog) not happy when he sees suitcases. "they're leaving me again". Good flight to Sydney, no dramas.Nice breakfast/snack on plane (qantas), greek yoghurt, juice and muesli bar.
Bought a camera (Nikon coolpix) at the airport duty free for $349, now I just need to learn how to use it.
Flight from Sydney was delayed an hour (of course, nothing new there). The excuse was 'for cleaning' then changed their minds to mechanical problems (really making me feel safe). I said to Ron (hubby), "I don't need to know that".
The plane was a jumbo 747400 with an upstairs and downstairs. It was an Air Pacific flight. It was full to the brim. A lot of people under the sole care of a couple of pilots. Boy that is a lot of responsibility. They did a good job.I lived to tell the tale.
Left Sydney at 2.30pm. Had to wait on the tarmac for ages. Finally we were into the air and on our way to Fiji. We knew we would arrive in the night and leave in the dark so wasn't too excited about going to Fiji. Maybe we will get to see it another time.
I did a lot of preparation for work on the plane. It made the time go quickly. Also had a bit of a nap, but without my neck pillow (which I lost on my last trip) my head kept bobbing around.
We had a snack of chicken stir fry wrap, cold pasta and casava chips, coffee and soft drink. I think I had that last time I flew Air Pacific. Both Ron and I were still hungry but we couldn't do anything about it.
Met a nice guy sitting next to me. He and a colleague were going to Fiji for work. They are reps for a small wine importer in Australia based in Woollongong. Great job travelling around buying wine. He loved the job but enjoyed going home to his partner and 6 kids!!!!! Wow!!!!
Landed in Fiji, in the dark as expected. Ate dinner at 10pm and in bed by 11pm. Stayed at the Novotel, not too bad, about a 4 star. It was nice and close to the Airport, about 10 minutes drive. They have a shuttle bus that picks you up which is good. Very nice friendly staff. Slept well if only for 3 and half hours. Had to get up at 2.30am (yuk)to be at the airport by 3am for a 5am flight to Kiribati.
18th June 2012
Soooo tired!!!! Caught a taxi from the hotel (no cost). Met up with a couple of work colleagues and travelled to the airport with them. One of them was asked to put his toiletries into a plastic zip bag. He didn't have one so I lent him mine. I learnt last time even my lipstick had to go in a clear ziplock bag. He also had to take off his belt and shoes. They weighed and measured my cabin bag as it has to be a certain size and weight. They let me go when they realised it was the correct size.
Got through customs with about an hour to wait for the plane so we had a muffin and coffee. Ron bought some duty free wine for me to drink over there. Last time I was there I had trouble finding white wine to drink. Our colleagues were lucky to be able to wait in the Business class lounge because they are frequent flyers. One day????
The plane was on time and we were on our way to Tarawa Bonriki airport Kiribati. Air Pacific plane again. Flight takes approx 3 hours. We were served breakfast of yoghurt, fruit and coffee. Still hungry. God knows what my body thinks the time is.
Arrived in Kiribati about 8am. We were picked up by Linda Uan (Volunteers manager). I met her last time. Her husband is a film maker and also looks after International film makers and journos etc. Linda also looks after the disability school as her daughter has Autism.
We stopped to get petrol along the way and they only put in about Aus$10-15 at a time. As the road is only about 50 kms long and you can only travel at 40 - 60kmh you don't use up too much petrol.
The currency is the Aussie Dollar which seems odd.
Stopped at Utererei motel to drop our colleagues off and visited the 3 pet tortoises and watched them being fed. At least they are pets and not food.
Onwards to Mary's motel. Only one road so can't get lost. It is about 9am when we arrive. The room is very basic, reminds me of the shacks we stayed in when I was a kid in the 60's. Not happy because the shower is cold, no hot water. Last time my room had hot water, not this time. Lucky the weather is very hot. Water also goes off at about 9pm then back on in the morning. Got caught out once, all lathered up and water goes off. Down to a trickle. Agh!!!
Ventured over to the restaurant at about 11am because we were hungry. We both had bacon and eggs on toast. They always give you 3 pieces of toast???? Cost was $6 each. Also had a coca cola. Nice.
Met an Irish Kiwi and a Welsh Kiwi. They work for MET (meteorology?) Really nice guys.
Antoine (Director of Kiribati Institute of Technology) picked us up at 1.15pm for a 1.30 start at KIT.
Finished so We packed up, Ron had arrived so Antoine took us to his house for a drink. He had gathered some coconuts because he wanted to make a cocktail. He added vodka and something else with crushed ice and coconut milk. Very nice but very potent so I only drank half.
Ron met Tiara and we sat on the decking as he showed and explained his trip to Marakwai where Tiaras family live. It really looked nice. Then at 6pm we said we have been awake since 2.30am and need to get back to the motel and have some tea and in to bed.
We went searching for Eric when we returned only to find he had been sent packing due to the motel being full. They do that, over book and then kick someone out. He ended up above the Japanese restaurant in a small room. He was cool about it though. Said the food was better there.
Our first real meal at Mary's was Teriyaki chicken and rice and steak and rice.
At dinner we met 3 more Kiwis who are working for a consultant at the Ministry of Labor. One was delivering a Diploma of Finance, another HR skills and the third something to do with the marine/navy??? Not sure.
About 9pm we were off to have a cold shower and bed. Must admit it was refreshing. Set alarm for 6.30am as I was being picked up at 7.30am. Ron bought weetbix and milk for breakfast because the restaurant doesn't open until 7am.
Nice comfy bed so should sleep well.
19th June Tuesday 2012
Woke up to the sound of pouring rain outside. Dogs barked all night and one howled as though it had been hurt and sure enough on my way to work there was a dead dog who had been hit by a car. The dogs are roaming free everywhere and are a real pest. They are not desexed so there are fights amongst them all the time. They are not aggressive to us though which is unusual. It seems they have learnt to live side by side with humans. Many of the locals have them as their pets but they are still free roaming. Evidently there was a Vet in Kiribati who wanted to desex the males and treat the dogs for parasites etc but she wasn't allowed for some reason.
The rain was very heavy, real tropical rain storms. My ride to work was late so that made us both late, but no one seems to care. Kiribati time after all.
It was great catching up with my students again and they all seemed happy to see me again and to meet Ron.
Was already to start work but as I said it is Kiribati time and I had to wait until they were ready.
Thank goodness for usb's as I was able to spend time saving work to leave with the staff when I left. Their intenet is unreliable so everything needs to be on usb or saved to their computers. But there can be a problem with virus's also.
At lunch time I went shopping for snacks. You have to rely on what has come in from other countries, so one week it can be all from Australia or another New Zealand etc etc. I bought 2 minute noodles for lunch as there wasn't much else to get. No pies, pasties, rolls or sandwhiches. Even though one of the days I did get a roll. I could see it had egg, so I bought it only to find it also had strawberry jam. Cold egg and jam. Nah not good. Roll was nice and fresh though. I did get some mixed nuts which was good.
At 4pm I was able to get a lift back to the motel with an Australian/Philipino consultant called Toni. She teaches English.
Arrived back at the motel only to find no Ron. I tried not to worry and decided to wait before panicking. I got the motel worker to open my door so I didn't have to wait outside in the rain. Ron arrived just after 5pm. He had decided to go adventuring when the rain had stopped and caught the local transport to the other side of the island and back. He did say it started to rain again and he got caught in it. The transport consists of small minivans and most are missing their windscreens, due mainly to falling coconuts, breadfruit and other things falling from trees. As there are no 'windscreen businesses', they tape up the windows with heavy duty plastic. If it is raining, someone has to wipe the windscreen with a tee shirt or rag.
For dinner that night we had the local fish, I think it is called Morokoi (emperor). I am not a seafood eater but it was delicious. Very white and meaty. I had mine crumbed and we had chips with it.
Early to bed again at 9pm. There is no TV or radio, so we read for awhile or watch a movie on the computer. As we get up at 6am we are usually too tired to do much.
20/6/12 Wednesday
Nicer day with the sun shining. Off to work by 7.30am for a full day of teaching. I was really impressed with the students memories. I tested them on topics they learnt in February and they were all up to date with their knowledge.
We had a special lunch to welcome me and farewell a fellow colleague from Australia.
There was a lot of singing and then a lovely feast. We were given a garland of flowers for our heads. They included Ron as well even though he was a visitor not a teacher. Everyone was so happy and welcoming.
Finished teaching and arrived back at the motel to catch up with a colleague who was leaving the next day. He had been kicked out of the motel earlier because they mixed up his booking.
Had a quick drink then he had to go to a farewell dinner. We weren't alone for long when James the meterologist came back from a game of soccer with the locals. He said some of them are quite good and most play in bare feet. That is a common occurence here. Most of my students who are the KIT teachers go barefeet except at the school. You see kids walking around on the hot tar road in bare feet and they don't seem to notice. Their feet must be so hard.
James invited us to have dinner and drinks with their group. There were the two meteorologists, 2 female pediatricains, 2 pediatric nurses, James and his mate John and Mal a cop from NZ. we had a great night and several stories were shared amongst everyone. We all have our own unique experiences in Kiribati. Didn't get to bed til 11pm and of course the water was off so had to get up earlier to fit in a shower. Cold shower that is.
Another noisey night, people, dogs etc.
21/6/12 thursday
Funny how we are waking up just before the alarm goes off. I must be scared I will sleep in or something.
Toni picked me up in a hire car. All dented and dirty but still costs $50 a day.
Arrived at work early enough to get some internet before class.
As we said it always seems to go right on the day.
Did some work in the afternoon then on my return to the motel, Ron and I decided to take a walk around the town.
Checked out the view over the sea from the Moromon church nearby then realised the prison was next door. Not many real criminals and this was the womens section. Just a cyclone fence with a bit of barb wire on top. That looked like the only difference between the local houses and the prison.
Also saw the one of the Presidents residents which was very nice, lovely gardens and very friendly police guards. They even let us take their photos and also the house. I don't think they have a lot of trouble from foreigners as it is not a place for regular tourists, mainly people working here.
Went back for an early tea and to watch some videos Ron had bought.
22/6/12 Friday
Off to work today in blue top as it is the Australian High Commissioner's visit and everyone is wearing their special blue top. They have a red one also but I am not sure when they wear that one. I didn't want to stand out so I dressed in the same color. The High Commissioner was coming to open the new classrooms and toilet block. He was due at 9 am but he put a spanner in the works by arriving 10 minutes early. I-Kiribati people expect you to arrive late not early so weren't ready for him. Luckily the Director was able to take him and his wife into his office for a chat and to cool down in the air conditioning whilst the school got itself ready and in place for their welcome.
All went well. Students sang a welcoming song and then they placed flower garlands on the guests heads. There were speeches made by the two Directors, High Commissioner and the Student Council President. All in English as all classes at the Institute are in English. Students must have a certain level of English to be able to attend. They attend advanced classes also.
Lunch time a few of us and Ron (he was the official photographer) went to Aboys restaurant, one of the better ones. Whilst we were there a cart with tuna on it was wheeled past into the kitchen. Wow they were very big and so fresh. No wonder the tuna steaks here are so nice. Even I like them.
One of the ladies from the college who came to lunch was born in Kiribati but married an Australian so comes back every year for a few months to see her mother and sister. She is an ex teacher and her husband is also a teacher. She has a temporary position as Business Development officer at KIT. She also wants to start up a small tour business. She has a lot of knowlege regarding the Battel of Tarrawa and the relics left after the war to rot on the beaches.
That night when we went over to the motels restaurant for dinner another couple we met arrived to join us. They are volunteering for 12 months and have their two children with them. Lachlan is in IT and his wife Amber is in marketing.
Unfortunately for them they have not been well and had just returned from Brisbane after coming down with Dengue fever (Amber and the kids) and Lachlan had shingles. On their return their daughter had suspected Typhoid and their son had a rash appear on his arms. Not the place to take kids as they have found out. They live near the High Commissioner in a small house.
We were also joined by the Kiwis. It is so nice here that you are never alone, there is always someone to talk to.
Off to bed at 10.30pm.
Yay, no work today. Sleep in. Had a good nights sleep too which was good. Leisurely walk to the restaurant (1min) for bacon and eggs. Nice too. The Kiwis had the same idea, so once again we were a group.
We decided to hire a car today to sight see. Ron ordered it the day before. It is 9.30am and no car. I did go in to the office before breakfast to make sure it was ordered only to find it hadn't been. The Kiwis were in the same boat. Anyway they found two at 8am. They said they would let us know when it gets in.
About 10am we asked again and it was there. So much for letting us know. We did get a nice car with air conditioning. A toyota. The boys got a Rav 4 without air conditioning.
we decided to go to Parliament house open day. It was a very hot day too. Had a lovely tour around Parliament house and have decided that there is no maintenance done on buildings in Kiribati. The chamber is about the only section that is looked after. The building itself is not old but looks shabby.
Around the buildings different people had small stalls selling drinks, food and displaying project work. One of the stalls was the Taiwanese horticulture project. The fruit and veges they have been growing were very healthy looking. Didn't have insect holes on the cabbages etc. I hope they get stuck into the locals and show them all how to grow the vegies. That is what we have found lacking. No vegies other than canned.
There was also entertainment happening on the stage. Lots of singing and dancing.
At lunchtime we headed off to a restaurant called Chatterbox. The most modern one in town. We had chicken sandwhiches and the girl put designs on them using cucumbers. I had a palm tree and Ron a flower. The coffee is the best in town too. I had my usual latte and Ron a cappucino. Cost about the same as home.
This is the best place for souvenirs so we bought some. They aren't cheap but they are good. Whilst we were eating a couple of Navy guys came for a drink so we got talking to them. They come over for at least 4 years and bring the whole family. They are set up for life after a term here. They live in a large house similar to home and the naval base has everything they need, including gym, swimming pool, tennis courts etc. One of them has just finished his time and is heading home in January. His wife and kids have already gone. He enjoyed it here but was ready to go home. He would have set himself up very well.
After lunch we went for a drive along the seaside (sea on both sides so no choice). Took lots of photos of palms and local homes. The population thins out the further you drive and is a lot nicer to look at. Not as much rubbish scattered around rotting.
On our way back we went shopping and met some Mormons and had a chat. I couldn't believe their minivans seats still had plastic covering the seats. I mentioned it and the women agreed with me but they weren't allowed to take it off. There were two couples and were from the USA. They were over 50 like us.
On returning back to the motel we had time to have a shower and get dressed to go out to the Directors house for a party.
We knew a lot of the people but met a couple from Ausaide, and a bomb surveilance guy whose job was to check out for unexploded bombs from the war.
Had a really good time and left at about 1am. At least the next morning was Sunday and no work.
24/6/12 Sunday
Breakfast was poached eggs this time on toast. Today we organised to go to a resort Island about 1 hour away with our Kiwi friends. One of the Kiwis is the Deputy High Commissioner of NZ. Lovely Maori lady and so funny. The idea was we would all go to the resort and those that wanted to would go for a 3hour walk around the island.
We took the hire car and you drive to the end of the road and you have a river between you and the Island. At low tide you can walk across and on your return a small boat brings you back to your car. The walk across takes about 10 mins in shallow water. It only came up to my knees.
Once we got there we ordered lunch as it can take an hour or so for them to prepare. The resort is very basic but really lovely and relaxing. We parked our bodies in comfy seats overlooking the sea which was a beautiful turquoise blue. There are sleeping and relaxing places called Maneabas which are on stilts over the water. So Pacific style.
It was so hot that after lunch one of the Kiwis and myself decided we didn't want to go on the walk. So glad we didn't as Ron said it was very hot and not any better scenic wise than where we were. I had a bit of a nap, read my book and chatted to the Len the Kiwi. There was a slight breeze and we had some snacks and water, what else could you want. You can stay overnight at the resort as it has electricity and a decent toilet. You sleep in the Maneabas and they provide bedding and mosquito nets. The food is very good too and they have beer and soft drinks.
By the time the others got back it was nearly dark and the tide was in so we had to catch the last boat back. It is just a canoe and you sit on a small platform on the top and dangle your legs in the warm water. You must wear shoes or thongs walking anywhere on the beach as there is glass, tin and other rubbish scattered around.
Dropped into Useterei for dinner. We had heard there was a good chef there so thought we would try it out. Also one of the guys we met from Australia was staying there and a few other aquaintances. It wasn't as good as I thought it would be but Rons meal was good.
Once again we got back quite late. I drove and it was a bit hairy at night with pot holes, dogs and dark skinned people on the road.
25/6/12 Monday
New week. My colleague Lynne arrives this morning. Ron will look after her til she goes to KIT. Ron's stomach is a bit iffy today. A bit of the runs so he won't go far anyway.
Met up with Lynne in the afternoon and she was all keen to start work. She is here for a week and will leave on the same flight as Ron and I. I gave her a quick tour of KIT and Mary's motel and surrounds. Joined our Kiwi mates for dinner then it was off to watch some videos they had downloaded for us. Ron is still feeling unwell.
26/6/12 Tuesday
Attended a welcome for Lynne at the usual 8am staff meeting. Love the welcomes, lots of singing. Had luch at Aboys with my new found friends, Taote and Toni and Lynne. Took Lynne to the store to buy some snacks before going back to work.
For dinner we tried out the Japanese restaurant that is owned and run by Koreans, not a Japanese person in sight. Nice food.Watched another video, thank goodness for videos.
Ron still unwell.
27/6/12 Wednesday
My poor students were so tired from overwork that they were falling asleep so I had to give them the afternoon off. Not a lot of training happening in this trip which means the poor things will have a lot of self-directed study to do. Lots of research and reading all in English will really test them.
Ron was a bit better today so had some food. Went to bed reasonably early then at 2am there was a loud bang out front. On investigation we saw a white ute had hit the ocean retaining wall. No one was hurt and the guy just got in his ute and drove off.
He looked a bit wobbly so I think he was possibly drunk. So now wide awake, trying to get back to sleep and just when I was drifting off the neighbours came home from a night out and were laughing and talking loudly. So I guess it was about 3ish when they quietened.
28/6/12 Thursday
So tired this morning. Full day of teaching and last day of teaching as there is a big celebration Friday afternoon.
Went to tea with several friends that were leaving after spending 2 years in Kiribati. We went to Utereirei. I had steak and it was delicious, some of the others had tuna steaks and lobster. Tried out their capucino but it wasn't very nice.
Chatterbox is still the best in Kiribati. We now have the toyota Hilux for the remainder of our stay and so won't have to rely on others to pick me up. Ron will still have to use public transport during the day though.
29/6/12 Friday
Wow what a day today was. Off to KIT in the Hilux with Lynne. Worked all morning tying up loose ends and cleaning out my stuff. Left the managers with all my stationery cos I don't want to carry it home with me and they don't have easy access to things like highlighters, whiteboard pens, plastic sleeves etc.
Drove to the Directors house for a farewell ceremony and a ceremony to open his new fence. Yes they have a formal ceremony for everything. They put a banner made from pandana leaves across the gate and everyone sang and then there was a speech and finally the banner was cut and the gate was declared open. Different.
KIT staff had organised activities for the day and had set out chairs, had microphones, music and there was a stage. First there were speeches and then we were given a garland of flowers for our hair, a new I-Kiribati top and a sarong to wear. Then after speeches it was fun time. We had to perform a dance so we did the Hokey pokey but called it the 'Aussie shuffle'. They all joined in.
Then the Trade teachers did individual dances, there were some songs and one of the Aussies attempted to speak in the local language much to the amusement of everyone.
Then it was free for all. The teachers picked a foreigner to dance with them. No time to feel self conscience as we all looked silly anyway. I was the first up and had no choice. The guy I danced with I nicknamed rubber legs. He was amazing and I found it hard to keep up with him. It was so much fun and we all laughed a lot. Ron who is normally quiet and reserved also had to join in and he thorughly enjoyed it also. For some reason you don't feel embarrassed as they are so friendly and love to laugh at everyone in particular themselves. Pity we can't be more like that instead of worrying what others think.
"Happy people breed happiness".
Whils the dancing was happening several of the men were cooking a bbq and the women organising food such as salads, breadfruit chips, rice, drinks etc. We even had a DJ who was really good with the music. It all finished at 5pm and we took the DJ and speakers home. I had to be careful of pot holes and overhanging trees as they had to sit in the tray of the Hilux.
That night poor Rons tummy was playing up again, but we had such a great time he didn't worry about it.
30/6/12 Saturday
Tourist time.
Ron went on a WWWII relics tour with Taote and her driver Kaure whilst Lynne and I finished off our work commitments.
Ron returned at midday after a really good interesting tour. He was gone for 4 hours. She had a small group of about 6 people. Her first tour one of many more I hope.
Lynne and I had a meeting with the Director to go over what we have been doing and then we went for a drive.
That night at dinner we had a visit from Kaure the tour driver who had promised me a book on kiribati. He had caught local buses to get it to us as the bus he had isn't his. After a long talk we offered him a lift home. We didn't realise he lived so far away and insisted he let us drive him home. Well, after dropping him off almost to the airport we got back at midnight. It wasn't pleasant driving as it was raining and the pot holes were full of water. There still seemed to be lots of people out at that time too.
1/7/12 Sunday
What a day!!!
Started early and drove to the island, walked across and had pancakes for morning tea and coffee. My tummy wasn't feeling that good but it held.
Showed Lynne the island and then on the way back some of the sites. It was very hot so we did stay inside the car a lot. It was a good chance for Lynne to get some photos though.
We had decided to go to the chinese restaurant for tea about 20 mins drive away. On paying our bill we met some Aussie surfers who had just arrived and were catching up with their emails in the office (the only strong internet area). On hearing our Aussie accent they told us that there was going to be a traditional dance at Mary's later. We had enough time to go for tea and be back in time. So we did. Had a nice meal and got back in time only to be told a change of venue. Of course it was the Chinese restaurant where we had just come from. So another 20 min drive we got back just in time.
What a show. I got it on video. I kept saying wow. They were fantastic and it went for at least 30 mins if not more.
We got talking to the surfers and their families. They had just come from the Carribean by yacht and took 8 months. They were meant to only take a few months but there were too many secret surfing and fishing spots that they couldn't drag themselves from. I had to laugh knowing what he meant as I come from a very close surfing family and grew up with it. In fact my daughter and her husband are still entrenched in it. My son in law is a surfing photographer. My daughter who is a journalist has also done many stories on surfing and they have a website called surferseyes. One of the I-Kiribati surfers has started the first Kiribati Surf Association and wants to give the young locals an interest.
What a great day we had.
2/7/12 Monday
Up at 5am. Got to Chatterbox cafe at 6.30am and checked in and got our boarding passes. Had a capucino and a chat to our friends who are also travelling on the same plane. Lots of foreigners there. From Red Cross, Aus Aide, Aus Training, Tafe and lots of others. The office wasn't very organised and we wanted to get going to the airport but they were slow printing off our passes. Ron had to hassle them and it worked. We were off. We still had to check in our luggage and pay the exit fee ($20). I had gone through it before and knew it is hot and time consuming. There is no preference to anyone.
Finally got into the departure lounge. It is hard to describe what the airport looks like and in particular the lounge. Not what we are used to. I was trying to avoid going to the toilet, waiting to go on the plane. But unfortunately my upset tummy had other ideas. Luckily I had some tissues as there wasn't any toilet paper and I was so worried the toilet wouldn't flush but luckily for me it did. I had to put my hand in the systern and pull it up to flush. After I left a lady came in offering toilet paper. A bit late for me. Anyway took a stopper tablet so I would last all the way home. We had a stop over at Nadi airport then all the way home via Sydney. A long haul that is for sure. Once on the plane Ron and I realised we were on the very last two seats. But it was good because our friends had to go past when going to the loo and would say hi and have a chat whilst they were waiting.
The Director was on the plane too and gave me feedback. You did really well and everyone was happy. Wow!!
